<h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: "PingFang TC"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">銀川七公得知我有意從夏河繞道阿拉善</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">S317</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">省道返京，熟悉西北人文歷史的他囑咐我：要去看看曼德拉山巖畫。而我此次阿拉善之行最滿意的收獲就是在曼德拉山看到了古代游牧人刻在石頭上的巖畫。</span></h3><h3>
</h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">內(nèi)蒙古草原巖畫分布極廣。大興安嶺，陰山山脈，巴丹吉林沙漠等地都發(fā)現(xiàn)有巖畫。若不是親眼所見，我都不會相信，在阿拉善巴丹吉林浩瀚沙海中的曼德拉山，竟藏有如此豐富浪漫的巖畫。</span></h3><h3>
</h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">今年正月初九，即2</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">月</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">13</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">日早</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">8</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">：</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">30</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">，我和饒老師駕車從雅布賴鎮(zhèn)鹽業(yè)公司賓館出發(fā)，沿</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">S317</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">省道向東行駛。高德地圖告訴我，雅布賴鎮(zhèn)距曼德拉山巖畫</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">106</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">公里。</span></h3><h3>
</h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">我們在荒無人煙的大沙漠中行駛了大約一個半小時，在</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">S317</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">省道</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">114</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">公里路碑右側出現(xiàn)一條公路，公路兩側有一高大的方柱形指示塔和一座駱駝圖形標志，后面有一座尚未竣工的灰色建筑。我看路邊的牌子得知，這座建筑是阿拉善國際巖畫博物館。牌子上還有這樣一句話：</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Bold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">“</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">阿拉善巖畫公園投資</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">1.6</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">億人民幣，其中土建工程</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">3000</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">萬人民幣。目的是讓游客有一種時空穿越感，穿越曼德拉山</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">6000</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">的歷史。</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Bold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">”</span></h3><h3>
</h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">內(nèi)蒙古，阿拉善盟政府真有自信。在這塊幾百公里渺無人煙的沙漠戈壁里，扔進</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">1.6</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">億，每年能來多少游客？特別是長達幾個月的寒冷冬季，</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">S317</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">省道上十幾分鐘見不到一輛車，哪有游客？</span></h3><h3>
</h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">這是一條去往曼德拉山巖畫的專用公路。站在博物館前的廣場向</span><span style="font-family: PingFangSC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">遠處望過去，有一座黛青色孤山。我開車轉過一座低矮的山丘，來到一條干涸的河床前，不大的空地上有幾間房子，墻上掛著一個銅牌：阿拉善右旗曼德拉山巖畫保護管理站。</span></h3><h3>
</h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">關于曼德拉山巖畫的位置，網(wǎng)上的很多人提到：阿拉善右旗孟根布拉格蘇木西南等等。這樣的說法都是從網(wǎng)上蕩下來的，并沒有實際用途。初來乍到的游客面對大漠戈壁，百里無人煙，你到那兒找</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Bold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">“</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">孟根蘇木</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Bold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">”</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">。你駕車能走的就是一條</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">S317</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">省道。你只要記住</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">S317</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">省道</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">114</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">公里路碑，就能找到曼德拉巖畫，并知道自己離巖畫還有多少公里。</span></h3><h3>
</h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">我到管理站時，辦公室門開著，鑰匙插在鎖孔里，喊話無應答，走進去，室內(nèi)無人。我轉了幾圈看到一間房里有二位老人在做飯。我敲敲玻璃，里面出來一位老人，打過招呼后知道，這位老人就是近二年的</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Bold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">“</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">網(wǎng)紅</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Bold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">”</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">，曼德拉山巖畫保護管理站老魏。十幾年來，管理站或方圓數(shù)十公里的大沙漠中只有老魏一個人，近年，老魏腿腳不太好，他的老伴過來照顧他的生活。</span></h3><h3>
</h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">老魏拿出二張門票，說：這是正規(guī)門票，每張</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">40</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">元錢。我們買好票，正在做午飯的老魏放下手里的活兒，執(zhí)意要帶我們上山走一段路，給我們指指路。他還轉身回辦公室拿了一把雨傘出來，說：巖畫上會有鐵柵欄的影子，你們拍照片時，用雨傘遮擋一下。果然，上山拍巖畫，老魏這把雨傘非常有用。</span></h3><h3>
</h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">現(xiàn)在，從管理站到曼德拉山埡口，都已建好木棧道。游客只要沿著棧道走，就不會找不到回來的路。老魏指著棧道兩側像長城一樣的玄武巖柱狀節(jié)理的巖脈說：這里以前是大海，經(jīng)歷過火山活動，這些黑色的玄武巖就是火山噴發(fā)出來的，曼德拉山巖畫就刻在這些黑色的火山玄武巖石頭上。</span></h3><h3>
</h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">據(jù)我了解：曼德拉山巖畫早在</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">1986</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">就已經(jīng)由內(nèi)蒙古文物工作隊工作人員會同阿拉善盟文物站進行過非常仔細的拓印，臨摹，拍照。當時，在曼德拉山東西長</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">4</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">公里的山體上，發(fā)現(xiàn)有</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">4000</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">多幅巖畫。其數(shù)量之多，題材之豐富為世界罕見。</span></h3><h3>
</h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">曼德拉山所在地，從古至今，一直是各游牧民族交替出現(xiàn)的地方。巖畫是先后生活在這一帶的游牧民族共同創(chuàng)作的。巖畫所展示的史前時代及后來人們的生活，信仰，經(jīng)濟和社會活動，其內(nèi)容比任何歷史書籍都要豐富，生動，形象。而創(chuàng)作這些巖畫的牧羊人來自最早生活在巴丹吉林沙漠的原始氏族部落，春秋北狄牧地，及匈奴，羌，鮮卑，柔然，突厥，回紇，西夏等等民族。但要想在曼德拉山巖畫中準確劃分出具體哪個民族所繪，確是一件難以完成的事情。</span></h3><h3>
</h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">巖畫，是一冷門。在考古界，美術界真正能讀懂巖畫的人應該鳳毛麟角。</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">1999</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">年，山東畫報出版社出版蓋山林撰寫的《草原尋夢</span><span style="font-family: ".SFUIText-Semibold"; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">—</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">內(nèi)蒙古巖畫考察紀實》一書。這本書無論當時，現(xiàn)在都算是冷門。</span></h3><h3>
</h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">我在曼德拉山看到，巖畫表現(xiàn)的大多是人，動物，人與動物活動的肢體畫面，還有一些很抽象的圖畫，圖形，符號等。這些看似簡單的畫面中含有大量信息。它們有特別的語言符號，普通人看不懂，也無法從中獲得藝術享受。</span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;"><br></span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">巖畫絕對是冷門藝術。大多數(shù)游客到此，可能都和我一樣，就是看看熱鬧，到此一游，拍幾張照片在微信上得瑟得瑟，很快就忘了。</span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: ".SF UI Text"; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;"><br></span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><font face="PingFangTC-Semibold"><span style="font-size: 25.946666717529297px;"><b>敬請您關注《巴丹吉林沙漠中的曼德拉山巖畫（下）。</b></span></font></h3> <h3>穿行于巴丹吉林沙漠中的S317省道。</h3> <h3>沙漠中的胡楊樹</h3> <h3>沙漠中的胡楊樹。</h3> <h3>內(nèi)蒙古S317省道。</h3> <h3>沙漠中的阿拉善駱駝。</h3> <h3>S317省道114公里路碑。</h3> <h3>曼德拉山巖畫專用公路。</h3> <h3>尚未竣工的阿拉善巖畫博物館。</h3> <h3>曼德拉山巖畫專用公路。</h3> <h3>阿拉善右旗曼德拉山巖畫保護管理站。</h3> <h3>阿拉善右旗曼德拉山巖畫保護管理站。</h3> <h3>管理站去曼德拉山巖畫的木棧道。</h3> <h3>沙漠中的植物。</h3> <h3>沙漠中的植物。</h3> <h3>曼德拉山。</h3> <h3>曼德拉山。</h3> <h3>站在曼德拉山上看巖畫保護管理站和巖畫專用公路。</h3> <h3>在曼德拉山埡口修建的亭子。</h3> <h3>沙漠中的植物。</h3> <h3>以下圖片（注譯除外）均為曼德拉山巖畫。</h3> <h3>曼德拉山的巖石。</h3> <h3>通往巖畫的路。</h3> <h3>沙漠中的植物。</h3> <h3>曼德拉山的巖石。</h3> <h3>為保護巖畫安裝的鐵柵欄。</h3> <h3>為保護巖畫安裝的鐵柵欄。</h3> <div align="left" style="white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; line-height: 25.200000762939453px; margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; border: 0px; color: rgb(225, 224, 206); caret-color: rgb(225, 224, 206); font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, 宋體, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><h3></h3><br style="line-height: 25.200000762939453px;"><br style="line-height: 25.200000762939453px;"><h3><br></h3></div>