<p class="ql-block">探人生（第一篇）和玩心跳（第二篇）無(wú)法跟了解當(dāng)?shù)貧v史文化割裂。從2010年上海世博會(huì)看到土耳其館就惦記著，如今在土耳其各地體驗(yàn)，起伏的地貌、歷史的更迭、文化的交匯都時(shí)時(shí)展現(xiàn)在眼前流動(dòng)于耳際，回來(lái)之后仍在學(xué)習(xí)。而隨著時(shí)間的沉淀，網(wǎng)紅打卡的照片已漸漸淡漠，反而是對(duì)所到之處的后續(xù)研究使我對(duì)宗教、種族間的征戰(zhàn)與磨合越發(fā)感興趣。比如，土耳其人敬仰的凱末爾在希臘人心中是什么形象？那被導(dǎo)游們淡化的一百年前土耳其和希臘人口交換的背景又有多少？被當(dāng)作tourist attraction的希臘村ghost town有多少血淚？</p><p class="ql-block">Istanbul這座迷人的城市似乎匯集了這些矛盾體，而把它放在時(shí)間長(zhǎng)河、人類博弈的背景下，一切又有著緣由。比如，令我最難忘的是Ayasofya又于2020年8月重新被作為了清真寺，而同時(shí)St. Antoine Church 門(mén)前陳列著Francis of Assisi 冒生命危險(xiǎn)跨越十字軍東征線會(huì)見(jiàn)埃及蘇丹的歷史，以紀(jì)念不同宗教與種族的交流。這座城市又會(huì)給后人留下什么樣的故事？</p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greek_genocide" target="_blank">希臘土耳其矛盾</a></p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://grandinmedia.ca/st-francis-meeting-with-famed-sultan-800-years-ago-set-tone-for-catholic-muslim-relations/" target="_blank">天主教穆斯林關(guān)系</a></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:18px;">此篇因有照片集錦就不在配圖上下功夫了，而名勝簡(jiǎn)介也只貼了鏈接，著重雙腳丈量Istanbul的流水賬和簡(jiǎn)單思考。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><a href="http://www.kamkm888.com/3xlj7jbb" target="_blank">體驗(yàn)土耳其（1）：探人生</a></p><p class="ql-block"><a href="http://www.kamkm888.com/3xplrtic" target="_blank">體驗(yàn)土耳其（2）：玩心跳</a></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">人口近一千五百五十萬(wàn)，是紐約2.7陪的Istanbul必須單獨(dú)成文。歷史緣故，雖然土耳其大部分位于亞洲，卻把自己當(dāng)歐洲國(guó)家，比如Istanbul被稱作歐洲人口最多的城市。在億萬(wàn)富翁數(shù)量排行榜上列第四位。</p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://www.istanbulview.com/world-richest-city/" target="_blank">億萬(wàn)富翁排行榜</a></p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://www.worldatlas.com/amp/articles/is-turkey-in-europe-or-asia.html" target="_blank">源自東亞的民族對(duì)歐洲的影響</a></p><p class="ql-block">11/20晚: Istanbul攻略是兒子做的。下飛機(jī)當(dāng)晚去Saltanahmet Square看夜景（注意古埃及的方尖碑等等）、a small bazaar，晚餐時(shí)近距離觀察whirling dervish 表演。與其說(shuō)是表演不如稱ceremony，因?yàn)橛凶诮瘫尘?。雖然難免商業(yè)化，但因我座位就在旁邊，看到舞者面部祥和的表情，兒子和我很被吸引。想到之前聽(tīng)到Rick Steves訪談里土耳其導(dǎo)游對(duì)13世紀(jì)波斯詩(shī)人哲人Rumi（a Sufi mystic, a dervish himself）的崇拜以及他對(duì)后人的影響。他的詩(shī)被編成二哥傳唱。接下來(lái)的音樂(lè)和演唱都非常精彩，我們坐旁邊也沒(méi)少互動(dòng)。</p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://istanbeautiful.com/sultanahmet-square-hippodrome-istanbul/" target="_blank">Sultanahmet Square</a></p> <p class="ql-block">11/21 從早上賓館頂樓早餐賞日出，去Istanbul Archeological Museum, Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia, Süleymaniye Mosque, 到了grand bazaar周日關(guān)門(mén)，<span style="font-size:18px;">繞著Istanbul University 圍墻走了一圈（不讓進(jìn)）。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <h1>Süleymaniye Mosque高居Istanbul七個(gè)山坡之一的頂部，俯瞰Golden Horn，雖然不是最大卻是最雄偉美麗的一個(gè)清真寺。</h1><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://www.lonelyplanet.com/turkey/istanbul/attractions/suleymaniye-mosque/a/poi-sig/401910/360887" target="_blank">Süleymaniye Mosque 簡(jiǎn)介</a></p> <p class="ql-block">最令我縈繞在心的是Hagia Sophia （土耳其語(yǔ) Ayasofya）, 這座見(jiàn)證了歷史變遷的雄偉建筑（在意大利圣彼得大教堂建成前是最大的教堂）有多少故事，從下面兩段可窺一斑，而最近的就是2020年8月被現(xiàn)在的領(lǐng)導(dǎo)人重新變?yōu)榍逭嫠隆?lt;/p><p class="ql-block">Built in 537 as the patriarchal cathedral of the imperial capital of Constantinople, it was the largest Christian church of the eastern Roman Empire (the Byzantine Empire) and the Eastern Orthodox Church, except during the Latin Empire from 1204 to 1261, when it became the city's Latin Catholic cathedral. In 1453, after the Fall of Constantinople to the Ottoman Empire, it was converted into a mosque. In 1935, under the direction of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the secular Republic of Turkey established it as a museum. In 2020, under the direction of Recep Tayyip Erdo?an, it re-opened as a mosque.</p><p class="ql-block">This redesignation is controversial, invoking condemnation from the Turkish opposition, UNESCO, the World Council of Churches, the Holy See, and many other international leaders. In August 2020, he also signed the order that transferred the administration of the Chora Church to the Directorate of Religious Affairs to open it for worship as a mosque. Initially converted to a mosque by the Ottomans, the building had then been designated as a museum by the government since 1934.</p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:18px;">歷代戰(zhàn)亂毀壞了多少建筑以及文物，奧斯曼帝國(guó)卻保留了Sophia教堂，把它用作清真寺期間用石膏覆蓋了浮雕，只在外面蓋了宣禮塔，才使無(wú)價(jià)之寶能被展示給世人。</span></p> <p class="ql-block">11/21 剛在水邊晚餐水煙袋賞夜景后，溜達(dá)夜里Istanbul小巷，沒(méi)有了游人的喧鬧。回到旅館后兒子還要去溜街頭，看著grandma做大餅又餓了，走在美食街上被好多飯館拉著看菜單，我已經(jīng)走到街尾，兒子過(guò)來(lái)告訴一家老板給他折扣，被我所在的店主聽(tīng)到說(shuō)要給更好的待遇。沒(méi)想到吃飯也給折扣呢，也就不好意思再bargain，看了pottery lamb kebab帥哥的表演，跟他聊了一陣。</p> <p class="ql-block">11/22 當(dāng)年讀Dan Brown小說(shuō)時(shí)想按圖索驥 Basilica Cistern 遺憾暫時(shí)關(guān)閉，只能以后再尋美杜莎（Medusa）了。</p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://istanbultourstudio.com/things-to-do/underground-cistern_museum" target="_blank">地下水宮</a></p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://www.lonelyplanet.com/turkey/istanbul/attractions/basilica-cistern/a/poi-sig/402088/360887" target="_blank">Basilica Cistern 拜占庭文明</a></p><p class="ql-block">旅館出來(lái)轉(zhuǎn)角到了有1600年歷史的Theodosius Cistern（水宮）美輪美奐的燈光秀講述歷史文化風(fēng)情（有耶穌和凱末爾等影像）。只有身臨其境才能體會(huì)，所以不建議看太多視頻（存底），包括YouTube上的，給自己一個(gè)驚喜吧。</p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://istanbulclues.com/serefiye-theodosius-cistern-istanbul/amp/" target="_blank">Theodosius Cistern介紹</a></p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://www.serefiyesarnici.istanbul" target="_blank">https://www.serefiyesarnici.istanbul</a></p> <p class="ql-block">看完水宮燈光秀，去了正在修建的Blue Mosque，因事先看了兩位女生的視頻知道不需要花時(shí)間在里面，就趕去New Mosque、Rutem Pasha Mosque，路過(guò)了前一天關(guān)閉的大巴扎（underwhelmed ）、廣場(chǎng)、Emin?nü渡口、奔著Galata Tower和兒子熱衷的Taksim Square。經(jīng)過(guò)滿是垂釣者的Galata Bridge，一路爬坡到了歷史悠久的Galata Tower，看了現(xiàn)代土耳其國(guó)父凱末爾葬禮的圖片（前文有介紹他）。</p><p class="ql-block"><a href="http://www.allaboutistanbul.com/galata_tower.html" target="_blank">Galata Tower 簡(jiǎn)介</a></p><p class="ql-block">下了Tower，在去Taksim Square的路上去了兩家頗有歷史的教堂，燃了蠟燭???。</p><p class="ql-block">1. The Church of Santa Maria Draperis, located in the vibrant pedestrian street “Istiklal Caddesi”, is one of the oldest and most beautiful churches in Istanbul. However, it remains hidden next to the fame of the Saint Antoine de Padoue Church, which lies a bit further away. A staircase leads down to the entrance, which is located behind iron gates.</p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://istanbul-tourist-information.com/en/experience-istanbul/places-of-worship-in-istanbul/churches-in-istanbul/catholic-churches-in-istanbul/church-of-santa-maria-draperis/" target="_blank">https://istanbul-tourist-information.com/en/experience-istanbul/places-of-worship-in-istanbul/church</a></p><p class="ql-block">2. Istanbul最大的羅馬天主教堂之一：著名的Saint Antoine Catholic Church </p><p class="ql-block">“Saint Antoine was a Portuguese Catholic priest who lived in between the years 1195 and 1231 under the disciple of St. Francis of Assisi. He was known for his being a miracle worker, as well as the patron saint of finding people and things.”</p><p class="ql-block">恰好聽(tīng)了Rick Steves講 St. Francis of Assisi的生平，以及在意大利Assisi常被信徒朝拜的 Basilica of St. Assisi. 富家出身的他舍棄世俗舒適遵從基督教導(dǎo)以及簡(jiǎn)樸生活方式的短暫一生應(yīng)該是信徒朝拜的重要因素之一，而其中一點(diǎn)就是他會(huì)見(jiàn)埃及蘇丹展示堅(jiān)定信仰的事跡。</p><p class="ql-block">八百年前，血腥的第五次十字軍東征時(shí)期，兩位堅(jiān)定自己信仰的領(lǐng)袖會(huì)面是什么樣子？2019年世界各地都有紀(jì)念活動(dòng)。</p><p class="ql-block">這所教堂前的照片講述了此過(guò)程。</p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://istanbultourstudio.com/things-to-do/saint-antoine-church-istanbul" target="_blank" style="font-size:18px;">教堂簡(jiǎn)介</a></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:18px;">還被拍成了紀(jì)錄片</span></p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://www.americamagazine.org/arts-culture/2017/12/08/1219-st-francis-crossed-crusade-lines-meet-egypts-sultan-what-can-we-learn" target="_blank" style="font-size:18px;">紀(jì)錄片簡(jiǎn)介</a></p><p class="ql-block">800 years ago, the unlikely meeting in 1219 of two men of strong faith, considered polar opposites – St. Francis of Assisi, the poor and humble Italian Catholic friar, and Sultan of Egypt al-Malik al-Kamil, the ruler of the Ayyubid Sultanate centered in Egypt. It was an encounter of peace between a Christian and Muslim in the midst of the bloody Fifth Crusades.</p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://hnp.org/celebrating-800-years-of-francis-and-the-sultan/" target="_blank">八百多年前St Frances and Sultan的會(huì)面</a></p><p class="ql-block">這一天直到三點(diǎn)半才吃飯。因?yàn)閮鹤右虏拍艹燥?，我是趕路走著都能吃的主，我倆一路上想著到下個(gè)點(diǎn)兒再說(shuō)，就吃點(diǎn)零食繼續(xù)。</p><p class="ql-block">因前一天看Topkapi Palace讀到很多寶貝都在Domabah?e Palace, 想趕過(guò)去，一看周一關(guān)門(mén)。粗心的娘倆分別把巴扎和皇宮的時(shí)間表忽略，也算扯平了。</p><p class="ql-block">有了體力一路到了Taksim廣場(chǎng)（underwhelmed）。兒子心中的大概是個(gè)年輕人喜歡的chic place，到了一看頗有失望。而我看著雕塑不遠(yuǎn)處一方形建筑高興地說(shuō)這個(gè)廣場(chǎng)簡(jiǎn)直和哈爾濱博物館一帶太像了！<span style="font-size:18px;">而后者中間也是類似形狀的雕塑；</span>那建筑和北方劇場(chǎng)如出一轍。要說(shuō)真是情不自禁想起家鄉(xiāng)：地標(biāo)圓頂?shù)乃鞣苼喆蠼烫?、博物館一帶、江畔公園。因哈爾濱有一些俄式建筑，我才格外覺(jué)得Istanbul親切。</p><p class="ql-block">其實(shí)吃飯時(shí)我在google map上sightseeing near me已經(jīng)看到了Taksim square的照片，只是沒(méi)想先給兒子過(guò)目。他倒是覺(jué)得走幾條時(shí)髦街道的過(guò)程比目的地更好玩。</p><p class="ql-block">又去了一處小山頂?shù)那逭嫠?，找到了Colorful Stairs and Instagrammable Wall 這倆網(wǎng)紅地兒，回到水邊已經(jīng)很累了。正猶豫是走路過(guò)橋還是坐輪渡時(shí)，我看到了Bosphorus cruise。兒子做攻略時(shí)原本是想白天做這個(gè)三小時(shí)的輪渡，中間下船去castle。但我們一查因疫情，這條線不開(kāi)。售票廳一問(wèn)夜里有個(gè)90分鐘的cruise，就又把疲乏都腦后直接買票了。</p><p class="ql-block">我倆坐水邊臺(tái)階上等著，看著一位男士用個(gè)簡(jiǎn)易爐子燒水準(zhǔn)備賣茶水，有條不紊，旁邊一個(gè)露臺(tái)，也許夜里有演出？</p><p class="ql-block">上了游船，兩岸美景盡收眼底！還看到了沒(méi)時(shí)間去參觀的castle。</p><p class="ql-block">做游船前累得無(wú)法再走路的雙腿又來(lái)了精神，沒(méi)見(jiàn)出租，也沒(méi)想用biTaksi叫車，又走回了旅館。準(zhǔn)備早上4點(diǎn)起床去機(jī)場(chǎng)（另成文）。</p> <p class="ql-block">印象中Istanbul所剩的基督教和猶太教的痕跡不多，看了下面簡(jiǎn)介感到了這所城市里宗教的多元化?？墒侨缜八?，看著Ayasofia的變遷想著這些教堂今后又會(huì)見(jiàn)證些什么？</p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-53371341.amp" target="_blank">教皇為Ayasofia又被改為清真寺而痛苦</a></p><p class="ql-block">There are numerous churches from different denominations in Istanbul such as Catholic, Lutheran, Orthodox, Armenian, Protestant and Syrian churches, which are used and run by the local Christian communities of Istanbul.</p><p class="ql-block">The historical urban development contributes significantly to the fact that a religious diversity like this still prevails in Istanbul.</p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://istanbul-tourist-information.com/en/experience-istanbul/places-of-worship-in-istanbul/churches-in-istanbul/" target="_blank">Istanbul的教堂</a></p><p class="ql-block">下篇Cappadocia可以看出早期基督教的影響。</p><p class="ql-block">Cappadocian Christianity started in the first century. The first Jesus-followers in the region were actually Jews who visited Jerusalem during Pentecost in 33 AD (Acts 2). They heard the apostle Peter preach, received the Holy Spirit, and returned to Cappadocia as “Messianic Jews.” Then around 62 AD, the letter of 1 Peter was written to Christians in Cappadocia, so indirectly confirms a first-century church presence. </p> <p class="ql-block">“The Church is designed by Giulio Mongeri and Eduardo de Nari, the two well-known architects in neo-Gothic style. If we look at the fa?ade, we’ll see that it reflects the 14th century tuscanlombard style and with a latin cross shaped building.”</p><p class="ql-block">注：St. Francis of Assisi 是基督教最受崇敬的人物之一。紐約也有教堂。舊金山因此得名。</p><p class="ql-block">San Francisco：named in Spanish for St. Francis of Assisi; the name first recorded in reference to this region 1590s, reinforced by long association of the area with the Franciscan order.</p><p class="ql-block">加州另一城市Santa Clara （以<span style="font-size:18px;">Francis 最早的跟隨者之一，</span>Clare of Assisi命名，見(jiàn)Order of Poor Sisters ）, Los Angeles.</p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Francis_of_Assisi" target="_blank">Francis of Assisi簡(jiǎn)介</a></p> <p class="ql-block">11/30上午</p><p class="ql-block">Dolmabah?e 是土耳其最大的皇宮，奧斯曼帝國(guó)建筑的代表，還融匯了其他幾種風(fēng)格。兒子和我改了從Izmir到Istanbul凌晨4:40的飛機(jī)票，Antigen test后寄存了行李，就坐出租奔著它來(lái)。</p><p class="ql-block">皇宮占地4萬(wàn)5千平方米，有285個(gè)房間、46個(gè)走廊、68個(gè)衛(wèi)生間，里面的水晶燈和各種寶藏更是精美。不由想到奧斯曼土耳其帝國(guó)曾經(jīng)擁有550萬(wàn)平方公里的土地，是現(xiàn)在土耳其的七八倍，而建此宮殿恰逢衰敗期間。</p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://www.millisaraylar.gov.tr/en/palaces/dolmabahce-palace" target="_blank">Dolmabah?e Palace 簡(jiǎn)介</a></p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://www.dolmabahcepalace.com" target="_blank">世界上最漂亮的皇宮之一</a></p><p class="ql-block">而Dolmabah?e Mosque又在下雨時(shí)收留了疲乏的母子倆還有另一位躺在地上休息的男士。前文寫(xiě)過(guò)工作人員看到我坐在女性禱告間就沒(méi)有進(jìn)來(lái)吸地。我們也捐贈(zèng)了一點(diǎn)。期間我冒雨拍到了隔博斯普魯斯海峽看對(duì)岸日出、海鷗翻飛的獨(dú)特魅力。Istanbul在兒子和我心中的地位被最后一天早上的風(fēng)景再次拔高。之前兒子都想改機(jī)票再轉(zhuǎn)幾天這座迷人的城市，還有亞洲區(qū)的古老Castle，bustling districts housing mosques, churches and synagogues 等等沒(méi)仔細(xì)體會(huì)呢。</p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://www.dolmabahcepalace.com/listingview.php?listingID=7" target="_blank">Dolmabah?e Mosque</a></p> <p class="ql-block"><a href="http://www.kamkm888.com/wap/video-work/view/index.html?um_rtc=a182fc6dff56099006cc0e8e6f9256a5&id=71aj9mo&type=10&v=6.8.1/#/?id=71aj9mo&type=10" target="_blank">Istanbul風(fēng)情集錦（1）</a></p><p class="ql-block"><a href="http://www.kamkm888.com/wap/video-work/view/index.html?um_rtc=9ec24121752ec38caa01b7562e087160&id=71am4og&type=10&v=6.8.1/#/?id=71am4og&type=10" target="_blank">Istanbul 風(fēng)情集錦（2）</a></p> <p class="ql-block">下面是11/22的筆記存底</p><p class="ql-block">去了正在修繕的The Blue Mosque, The New Mosque and the Rustem Pasha Mosque, 趕上prayer。Rutem Pasha Mosque tile設(shè)計(jì)加入了中國(guó)藍(lán)白相間的元素。https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rüstem_Pasha_Mosque</p><p class="ql-block">The designs combined traditional Ottoman arabesque patterns with Chinese elements. The change was almost certainly a result of active intervention and patronage by the recently established Ottoman court in Istanbul who greatly valued Chinese blue-and-white porcelain. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iznik_pottery</p><p class="ql-block">Mimar Sinan 建筑師介紹</p><p class="ql-block">He is considered the greatest architect of the classical period of Ottoman architecture and has been compared to Michelangelo, his contemporary in the West.</p><p class="ql-block">https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mimar_Sinan</p><p class="ql-block">他最有名的設(shè)計(jì)是Suleymaniye Mosque，也葬在其旁邊。</p><p class="ql-block">As with other imperial mosques in Istanbul, the Süleymaniye Mosque was designed as a külliye, or complex with adjacent structures to service both religious and cultural needs. The original complex consisted of the mosque itself, a hospital (darü??ifa), primary school, public baths (hamam), a caravanserai, four Qur'an schools (medrese), a specialized school for the learning of hadith, a medical college, and a public kitchen (imaret) which served food to the poor. Many of these structures are still in existence, and the former imaret is now a noted restaurant. The former hospital is now a printing factory owned by the Turkish Army.</p><p class="ql-block">Just outside the mosque walls, to the north is the tomb of architect Sinan.</p><p class="ql-block">https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Süleymaniye_Mosque</p>