<p class="ql-block" style="text-align:center;">山水總相逢 未來(lái)仍可期（一）</p><p class="ql-block" style="text-align:center;">——四姑娘山六記</p><p class="ql-block"> </p><p class="ql-block"> 十多年前春熙路的文軒西南書(shū)城絕對(duì)是成都書(shū)店界的頂流。一到周末、節(jié)假日、特別是炎熱的暑假，少兒館就座（地板）無(wú)虛席：來(lái)蹭空調(diào)、蹭書(shū)看的小朋友人滿為患。那會(huì)兒，高產(chǎn)作家楊紅櫻的《女生日記》、《男生日記》、《五三班的壞小子》、馬小跳系列等兒童文學(xué)中的爆款把我女兒弄的五迷三道的，每本必追，但沒(méi)有給她全買，所以免不了去書(shū)城蹭書(shū)看。</p><p class="ql-block"> 女兒蹭書(shū)看，我也沒(méi)閑著。我一直有個(gè)壞毛病，進(jìn)書(shū)店必買書(shū)，買回家很少看完。大學(xué)時(shí)代的偶像三毛一直牢牢地占據(jù)著我心中的首席地位，依然天天做著白日夢(mèng)——有朝一日像三毛那樣講著《撒哈拉的故事》、《萬(wàn)水千山走遍》，所以在書(shū)店目光最多的停留在旅行以及世界各國(guó)風(fēng)光攝影畫冊(cè)上面。一次書(shū)城打折促銷華夏出版社出的印刷精美的上中下三冊(cè)《中國(guó)最美的100個(gè)地方》引起了我的注意，快速瀏覽了一遍之后下單買到手。但見(jiàn)該系列第一部分《中國(guó)最美的山》四姑娘山赫然在列，居然排名遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)高于青城山、甚至也在峨眉山之前。當(dāng)時(shí)在我心目中四川旅游景點(diǎn)當(dāng)中的大神不外乎九寨溝、青城山都江堰、峨（眉山）樂(lè)（山），四姑娘山？從未聽(tīng)說(shuō)過(guò)！我為自己的孤陋寡聞羞愧難當(dāng)。當(dāng)時(shí)就在心中播下了伺機(jī)而動(dòng)的小種子：暗下決心，一定要去瞅瞅這座中國(guó)最美的山之一！</p> <p class="ql-block"> 2014年春夏之交，前同事董Min在隔壁成都藝術(shù)職業(yè)學(xué)院新職位上，帶領(lǐng)美術(shù)系學(xué)生進(jìn)駐四姑娘山雙橋溝王幺妹客棧實(shí)習(xí)寫生數(shù)日，給我提供了如何前往游玩的線索。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block" style="text-align:center;"><b>一、20140618-21：花開(kāi)雙橋 霧鎖長(zhǎng)坪</b></p><p class="ql-block" style="text-align:center;"><b>Gesang (wild) Flowers Blooming in Double Bridge Gully，</b></p><p class="ql-block" style="text-align:center;"><b>Rain and Fog Flowing in Long Terrace Gully</b></p><p class="ql-block"> 川西多絕世美景，但不像九寨溝、峨眉山和樂(lè)山大佛那樣聞名遐邇，其主要原因是養(yǎng)在深閨人未識(shí)或識(shí)者甚少。這里高原風(fēng)光秀麗、山水迷人多姿，民族風(fēng)情濃郁，匯聚原始森林之神韻，雪山、草甸、濕地、牛羊，無(wú)不使人震撼；攝影愛(ài)好者、戶外運(yùn)動(dòng)者的天堂、大熊貓棲息地等等名號(hào)都給人以無(wú)限遐想。</p><p class="ql-block"> 其中四姑娘山就是一個(gè)例子。我一直在琢磨如果一生只能去一次、什么季節(jié)去最好：是領(lǐng)略初夏花叢冰川交相輝映的壯觀景象、還是看金秋赤樺與紅楓競(jìng)相爭(zhēng)艷的美麗畫卷？6月中旬逮著一個(gè)機(jī)會(huì): 給學(xué)生上完一周的課、提前咀嚼重溫接下來(lái)一周的教學(xué)內(nèi)容、感覺(jué)萬(wàn)無(wú)一失妥了，趁著中間有四天左右的間隔，在從幼兒園到大學(xué)的同學(xué)圈里好一陣吆五喝六，總算約到了兩個(gè)高中同學(xué)，拼上往返于小金縣日隆鎮(zhèn)與成都之間跑旅游運(yùn)輸?shù)乃綘I(yíng)車主李師的安馳和楊師的豐田越野車，終于成行。沿途從映秀到臥龍耿達(dá)鄉(xiāng)段大概有20多公里的路段，雨季塌方、飛石是常態(tài)，路況仿佛依然停留在2008.5.12的時(shí)光里，顛簸搖擺超乎想象，有那么一會(huì)兒，我感覺(jué)一不小心自己就可能在那兒成為永恒。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"> 四姑娘山位于邛崍山脈中段，川西高原與四川盆地西部盆周山區(qū)的交接帶上，隸屬阿壩藏族羌族自治州小金縣，東距成都 220公里，景區(qū)總面積為2000平方公里。</p><p class="ql-block">The Four Maidens Mountain (Mountain Siguniang) is situated in the middle of the Qionglai Moutain Range in the buffer zone between the West Sichuan Plateau and the mountainous area on the rim of Sichuan Basin, where Xiaojin County and Wenchuan County of Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture in Sichuan Province meet. The whole scenic area covers 2,000 square kilometers.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"> 四姑娘山景區(qū)的第一站——巴郎山。巴郎山海拔5040米，矗立在阿壩州的汶川、小金和雅安地區(qū)的寶興縣三縣交界處，綿亙八九十里。此山巍峨雄偉，高人云天，峭壁峻巖，奇險(xiǎn)難行。民間流傳的說(shuō)法是:"走攏巴郎山，性命交給天; 走到萬(wàn)人墳，死了又還魂。"可見(jiàn)其險(xiǎn)峻程度。巴郎山景色十分幽美，云海、杜鵑、典型的植物垂直帶譜景觀，在翻山途中目不暇接，驚嘆不已。</p><p class="ql-block"> 巴郎山的云層茫茫、云霧繚繞，山林飄渺，使人如置身云霄。巴朗山的云海有三奇。</p><p class="ql-block"> 第一奇是無(wú)風(fēng)云涌動(dòng)。深谷幽壑之中，茫茫白云蒸騰翻滾，波瀾壯闊;</p><p class="ql-block"> 第二奇是有風(fēng)云過(guò)山。有時(shí)看不到白云，眼前大霧彌漫，將你包裹著、簇?fù)碇?，輕柔的、如霧的云拂過(guò)你的臉，一股清涼的寒意中，似乎聽(tīng)得見(jiàn)云霧流走的聲音，風(fēng)聲呼嘯，飛云迅疾，再大的山也阻擋不住，向你銓釋出一條以柔克剛的道理；</p><p class="ql-block"> 第三奇是云海幻境。有時(shí)會(huì)在山間現(xiàn)出一群樓房，一片湖泊，一群怪獸，千姿百態(tài)，蔚為壯觀。</p> <p class="ql-block"> 巴朗山的貓鼻梁，是遙看四姑娘山全貌的最佳位置之一。當(dāng)然也是以四姑娘山為背景的攝影最佳位置。四姑娘山白玉般的容顏，銀光閃爍，亭亭玉立如一位少女，她的臉龐雖然被風(fēng)雪侵蝕長(zhǎng)久，看上去略顯憔悴，但俊秀恬靜的儀表，秀美端莊的體態(tài)，風(fēng)采依舊。時(shí)而有一縷白云像潔白的哈達(dá)繞在腰間，云動(dòng)似山移，四姑娘像一個(gè)翩翩起舞的藏家少女，柔美中不乏陽(yáng)剛之氣。她海拔 6250米，終年積雪，直指藍(lán)天，氣勢(shì)非凡，僅次于7,556米的蜀山之王貢嘎山，因此得名“蜀山之后”，同時(shí)還被稱之為"東方的阿爾卑斯"。與四姑娘相鄰，相對(duì)矮些的山就是她的三個(gè)姐姐。</p><p class="ql-block">The Four Maidens Mountain is typical of the landform of high mountains and deep valleys. With the precipitous peaks rising high up into the sky and perennially capped with snow, it is well known for its grandeur and loftiness. In fact, the Four Maidens Mountain is comprised of four peaks standing side by side like four girls. The peak of the Four Sister, with a summit elevation of 6,250 meters above sea level, is the highest of the Qionglai Mountain Range. Of all the mountains in Sichuan, it ranks second only to Mt. Gongga, which is 7,556 meters above sea level and being called the “King of Sichuan’s Mountain”, hence the Four Maidens Mountain’s reputation as the “Queen of Sichuan’s Mountains” and also the “Oriental Alps”.</p> <p class="ql-block"> 景區(qū)由四姑山、巴朗山和雙橋溝、長(zhǎng)坪溝、海子溝組成。景區(qū)內(nèi)雪峰聳峙，風(fēng)光旖旎，山體陡峭，冰川橫陳，空氣十分清新。自然生態(tài)保護(hù)良好，植被茂密，生物種類繁多，是一處景致奇特，生態(tài)原始，別具情韻的風(fēng)景區(qū)。景區(qū)內(nèi)的嘉絨藏族住著石塊砌成的碉樓，室內(nèi)安置著鍋莊，信仰藏傳佛教，農(nóng)舍村寨的建筑具有鮮明的山地生活特征。</p><p class="ql-block">The scenic spot can be divided into three parts - Shuangqiao (Double Bridge) Gully, Changping (Long terrace) Gully and HaiZi (Lake) Gully. The Four Maidens Mountain is a magnificent spectacle of nature, with snowy mountains, grotesque cliffs and gnarled trees, tumbling waterfalls, sparkling springs, luscious grasslands, and meandering streams, which merge magically into a beautiful, mystical picture. In a mild and moist climate, with wild flowers studding the meadows, the valley is rich in limpid streams. Dazzling glaciers span the mountainsides, and the cliff studded mountain summits are covered with snow all the year round. Because of the distinctive climate and vast differences in elevation, the Four Maidens Mountain abounds with animals and plants, which are distributed vertically according to their geographic location. In summer, mirroring clusters of flowers, the glaciers gleam brilliantly with a silver luster and present a spectacular view.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"> 這次，我們先在雙橋溝游玩。正值初夏時(shí)節(jié)，溪邊、河谷、山坡各色野花爛漫，香飄數(shù)里，漫步于此，讓人恍若置身仙境。</p><p class="ql-block">With its snowy peaks, pastures, meadows, forests, and its 37 interlaced ravines and brooks, the Double Bridge Gully is the most beautiful valley of the Four Maidens Mt. During the early summer season, colorful flowers arranged in clusters, diffuse fragrance for miles. Walking around there, people find themselves seem to stay in fairyland.</p> <p class="ql-block">（雙橋溝王幺妹客?！e至如歸！</p><p class="ql-block">聯(lián)系電話/微信：188 8046 6168；每人包早晚餐與住宿每天150元。）</p> <h3>（遠(yuǎn)山含黛，邀幾米陽(yáng)光永駐）</h3><br><h3></h3> <h3>(空靈、毓秀、薄曦、潺潺溪流，是遠(yuǎn)山的呼喚，是心靈的慰藉)</h3><br><h3></h3> <h3>(絕壁萬(wàn)仞，一枝獨(dú)秀)</h3><br><h3></h3> <h3>(飄動(dòng)的經(jīng)幡，搖曳一絲遠(yuǎn)思）</h3><br><h3></h3> <h3>(可以和毛爺爺比肩的女漢子)</h3><br> <h3>(牦牛物語(yǔ))</h3><br><h3></h3> <h3>(白云蒼狗，眷戀的是雪山的高遠(yuǎn))</h3><br><h3></h3> <h3>(東方的阿爾卑斯，你觸摸到了嗎）</h3><br><h3></h3> <h3>（格桑花開(kāi)，定格自然的芬芳與愜意）</h3><br><h3></h3> <h3>(山有山的姿態(tài)，樹(shù)有樹(shù)的風(fēng)姿，水有水的靜好，霧有霧的婉約）</h3><br><h3></h3> <h3>（悠然自得的不止是小牛犢，還有心情）</h3><br><h3></h3> <h3>（世間繁蕪，唯此景靜好）</h3><br><h3></h3> <h3>（我若盛開(kāi)，必使天地動(dòng)容）</h3><br><h3></h3> <h3>（格桑花編織的地毯，讓心瞬間柔軟）</h3><br><h3></h3> <p class="ql-block"> 第三天，全天游覽長(zhǎng)坪溝。長(zhǎng)坪溝內(nèi)草深木繁，高峰林立，峭壁嶙峋、山體裸露、周圍被茂密的原始森林和翠綠草坡環(huán)抱，峽谷悠悠，寧?kù)o怡人，溪水潺潺卻渺無(wú)人煙。還有喇嘛寺、高達(dá)數(shù)十米的飛瀑，景致絕佳。</p><p class="ql-block">The Long terrace Gully, in spring, wild flowers and countless blossoms are in full bloom while in autumn, red birch trees and maple leaves vie with each other for glamour supremacy. In the Gully, verdant pines and cypresses flourish and thrive, springs and splashing waterfalls gurgle as if alive.</p> 跟客棧老板夫婦說(shuō)再見(jiàn)，啟程前往長(zhǎng)坪溝。 （跳躍在山谷中的幽澗）<br><br> （水墨丹青，一卷山河）<br> （樹(shù)欲靜而風(fēng)不止）<br> （馬語(yǔ)者，懂你）<br> （孤獨(dú)也是一種心情）<br> （獨(dú)守流年物語(yǔ)，閑看花開(kāi)花落） <p class="ql-block"> 由于前一天在長(zhǎng)坪溝內(nèi)雨中徒步40多公里路程，膝蓋磨損嚴(yán)重、疲憊不堪、累得賊死，第四天就放棄了海子溝，打道回府了。想象著四姑娘山秋天的景象，不禁有些憂傷。不知何時(shí)能再見(jiàn)這一方山山水水了，因?yàn)榇松醒?，還有更多的山川連一次都未曾謀面，所以腳步不能停留下來(lái)，要以“一萬(wàn)年太久，只爭(zhēng)朝夕”的精神，去踐行自己立下的誓言：“橫看大千世界，縱覽五洲風(fēng)云，行萬(wàn)里路”。</p><p class="ql-block">Since hiking in the Long Terrace Gully the day before in the rain for more than 40 kilometers, my knees really hurt, and I felt terribly fatigued and tired. So on Saturday we gave up the idea of continuing sightseeing in Lake Gully but decided to go home. Imagining how beautiful the Four Maiden Mt. is in golden autumn, I can’t help but sad. I do not know how long it will take to see these mountains and rivers again. Because life is limited, there are so many famous mountains, great rivers and beautiful scenery that I have never seen before, I cannot stop my steps. With the spirit that “one thousand years are too long, seize every minute, seize every day”, I should fulfill my oath: "see the boundless universe horizontally, view the five continents vertically, travel ten thousand miles ".</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"> 如同初戀是最美最難忘的，第一次進(jìn)溝所見(jiàn)到的四姑娘山，她的美讓我有些手足無(wú)措，一眼便是千年。總懷疑自己沒(méi)有抓住她最美的瞬間，沒(méi)有足夠的技巧（事實(shí)的確如此）完美地表達(dá)她的驚艷。所以有了后來(lái)的第二、三次、四次、五次、六次。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><h5 style="text-align:right;"><span style="color:rgb(22, 126, 251);">（注：打有年月日Mark以及若干人像為賴RONG提供；</span></h5><h5 style="text-align:right;"><span style="color:rgb(22, 126, 251);">鳴謝同事Elizabeth Zhao為文中圖片注釋、批注；</span></h5><h5 style="text-align:right;"><span style="color:rgb(22, 126, 251);">文中景區(qū)介紹的英文部分參考了中國(guó)旅游出版社《四川英語(yǔ)導(dǎo)游景點(diǎn)講解》）</span></h5><p class="ql-block"><br></p><h5 style="text-align:right;"><span style="color:rgb(22, 126, 251);">（未完待續(xù) 敬請(qǐng)期待第二部分《秋染雙橋 雪落長(zhǎng)坪》，預(yù)計(jì)20220728更新）</span></h5> <p class="ql-block"><a href="https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/K78TVqvD3lbT7Vul7uII-g" target="_blank"><i> </i>查看原文</a> 原文轉(zhuǎn)載自作者本人同名微信公眾號(hào)《任妹兒縱橫四?！?，著作權(quán)歸作者所有。</p>