<p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">這次在布拉格選擇住在老城對(duì)面的The Lesser Quarter，MOOo by the Castle，一家精致的Apartments，喜歡得不愿離開(kāi)。晚上溜達(dá)到Charles Bridge經(jīng)過(guò)圣尼古拉教堂，廣場(chǎng)上人們吃飯散步，雖然三月初還挺冷，這邊還算熱鬧。幾天出出入入都看著教堂的圓頂。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">要去機(jī)場(chǎng)前的早上，自己再次溜達(dá)到Prague Castle，看St. Vitus Cathedral 早七點(diǎn)有mass，但7:30走到門(mén)口沒(méi)見(jiàn)人。問(wèn)了衛(wèi)兵對(duì)方說(shuō)不知道，又問(wèn)了兩位工作人員，都建議我去問(wèn)信息臺(tái)。周六的大早上能開(kāi)門(mén)嗎？我也沒(méi)去試，就看著圓頂返回，溜達(dá)到St. Nicholas Church。先進(jìn)星巴克吃了croissant，等教堂九點(diǎn)開(kāi)門(mén)進(jìn)去，然后回旅館拿行李叫Bolt（非常便宜）趕往機(jī)場(chǎng)。另：在布拉格三晚聽(tīng)了兩場(chǎng)歌劇，都是Bolt叫車(chē)，從老城到Lesser Quarter的旅館分別是135和95捷克crown （相當(dāng)于$4-$6）。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">有趣的是一位Bolt司機(jī)小帥哥跟我聊了一路，介紹布拉格去哪玩。從老城回我們旅館車(chē)輛每次必經(jīng)警察檢查，小哥解釋說(shuō)是美國(guó)和德國(guó)使館所在地（見(jiàn)圖）。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">圣尼古拉教堂是歐洲最美的巴洛克式教堂之一，里面金碧輝煌、雕塑精美，壁畫(huà)講述從尼古拉到圣本篤時(shí)期的生活場(chǎng)景，展示了捷克雕塑藝術(shù)。1746年莫扎特在布拉格時(shí)在此演奏，二戰(zhàn)期間捷克軍隊(duì)曾駐扎在這里，現(xiàn)在的夏天也舉行音樂(lè)會(huì)。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">看過(guò)捷克最近幾十年的歷史得知捷克人目前是least religious，偏偏布拉格遍布?xì)v史悠久造型獨(dú)特的教堂，是游客養(yǎng)著這些古跡吧？另一感慨是無(wú)論二戰(zhàn)時(shí)希特勒或幾十年后的蘇聯(lián)都沒(méi)有摧毀這些建筑，聽(tīng)過(guò)希特勒尤其鐘愛(ài)布拉格、還把寶貝都存于此（有待查證）</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">“希特勒決定在布拉格建立一個(gè)“ 滅絕種族博物館”。出于這個(gè)原因，他收集了來(lái)自被占領(lǐng)國(guó)家的貴重物品，并在此收集到了歐洲最多的屬于猶太民族的收藏品?！?lt;/span></p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://travel.ifeng.com/world/detail_2015_07/19/41073259_0.shtml" target="_blank" style="font-size:20px;">希特勒都舍不得毀掉的城市</a></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">。這一篇先把最后進(jìn)的教堂貼出來(lái)。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">更多介紹見(jiàn)鏈接</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">https://www.prague.fm/zh-hans/7185/圣尼古拉大教堂st-nicholas-church/</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">往返Lesser town必經(jīng)的車(chē)輛檢察崗?！癟he Lesser Quarter (or “Malá Strana” in Czech) is one of the most historic districts in all of Prague. Often called “Lesser Town”, the area’s name comes from its position on the west bank of the Vltava River, just below the Prague Castle and its grounds, and across the Charles Bridge from the larger New and Old Town areas.</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">Though the district is one of the oldest in Prague, Baroque architecture dominates the area due to fires destroying much of the original architecture in 1541. The area offers a nice retreat from the hustle and bustle across the bridge, with lots of picturesque alleyways and winding cobblestone streets.</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">Visitors to the area should be sure to check out Wallenstein Palace, a wonderful Baroque era building with five courtyards and a French-style garden. The palace currently houses the Czech Senate. Among the many churches in Malá Strana, St. Nicholas Church is perhaps the finest and most prominent with its wonderful apotheosis of St. Nicholas set in the dome of the church.</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">Any trip to Prague must include a stroll across the Charles Bridge to the quiet charm and beauty of the Lesser Quarter.”</span></p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://www.welcometoprague.eu/lesser-quarter" target="_blank" style="font-size:20px;">The Lesser Quarter 介紹</a></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">住處MOOo by the Castle 別致的院子布置。細(xì)心的旅館人員還給我們手寫(xiě)歡迎卡片以及送了紅酒??。</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">布置精心的Apartments，令人不愿離開(kāi)。寫(xiě)了Google、 booking、trip advisor review。</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">前臺(tái)可以幫助叫出租，但Bolt更便宜又快捷。</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">3/11/2023 早上獨(dú)自走到Prague Castle，空無(wú)一人。 </span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">St. Vitus Cathedral：看介紹早七點(diǎn)有mass，但或許7:30已經(jīng)結(jié)束，或許我沒(méi)找到入口，沒(méi)看到。3/8/2023已經(jīng)來(lái)過(guò)一次，那時(shí)工作人員正準(zhǔn)備第二天總統(tǒng)就職（后續(xù)）。</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">料峭春寒，還有小雪花飄下。在Castle頂部看Lesser Quarter紅屋頂?shù)木爸?，怎么看也看不夠，不禁再次感嘆雖然捷克近百年來(lái)幾易其手，統(tǒng)治者（入侵者）并未毀壞歷代建筑，使得布拉格成為歐洲最吸引世界各地旅游者的城市之一。</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">從Castle頂部看Lesser Town全景</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">建筑微雕公園</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">望著St Nicholas教堂圓頂從Castle走回中心，進(jìn)星巴克小憩，等早九點(diǎn)剛開(kāi)門(mén)就進(jìn)去，沒(méi)有游客，因?qū)@些精美的雕塑、壁畫(huà)等等一時(shí)間不夠了解，只能看個(gè)大概，留底以后學(xué)習(xí)吧。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">?布拉格游記以倒敘開(kāi)始，待慢慢回味，以饗讀者。</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">圣尼古拉教堂內(nèi)部小視頻</span></p> <p class="ql-block">Castle </p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">布拉格被稱為City of 1000 Spires 大概來(lái)源于St Vitus Cathedral 的尖塔。</span></p>